Slow the Flow: How to Use Berms and Swales to Transform Your Yard

Have you ever watched a heavy rainstorm turn your yard into a miniature water park? The water rushes down slopes, carving mini-canyons in your topsoil, only to pool uselessly in the street or wash away into the storm drain.

When water runs off your land, it takes your best soil and nutrients with it. But what if, instead of shedding that water as quickly as possible, you could capture it, slow it down, and sink it deep into the ground to feed your trees and garden beds?

Enter the berm and swale system nature’s favorite way to harvest rainwater right in your backyard.

The Dynamic Duo: What Are Swales and Berms?

Think of a swale and a berm as a partnership. They are constructed along the contour of your landscape (meaning they run horizontally across a slope, keeping a level elevation).

  • The Swale: This is a shallow, level-bottomed ditch designed to catch runoff. It doesn’t drain water away like a traditional ditch; instead, it holds the water temporarily, allowing it to slowly infiltrate the earth.

  • The Berm: This is a mound of soil or organic material built directly on the downhill side of the swale. It acts as a soft barrier, stopping water from escaping and encouraging it to pool in the swale.

As water collects in the swale, gravity pulls it straight down. This creates an underground reservoir of moisture a water plume that keeps the surrounding soil hydrated for weeks, even during dry spells.

A look at how swales and berms work together to store water underground.. Source: Permies.com
A look at how swales and berms work together to store water underground.. Source: Permies.com

Why This System is a Game-Changer for Your Yard

By intercepting runoff, you unlock three major benefits for your garden:

  1. Deep Watering: Instead of superficial watering that evaporates in a few hours, the slow sink of a swale hydrates the deep subsoil. Deep-rooted plants, perennials, and fruit trees will tap into this moisture reserves, making them incredibly drought-resilient.

  2. Soil and Nutrient Retention: Fast-moving water is an erosion hazard. By slowing the flow, sediment and organic matter settle to the bottom of the swale, enriching your soil instead of washing away.

  3. Passive Irrigation: Once established, a well-placed berm-and-swale system reduces your reliance on hoses and sprinklers. You let the sky do the heavy lifting.

The Secret Weapon: Shredded Cedar Mulch in Self-Supporting Meshes

Traditional dirt berms can be prone to eroding themselves during heavy storms if they aren’t fully covered in grass or plants. That’s why many smart gardeners rely on organic mulch barriers.

Using shredded cedar mulch packed into flexible, self-supporting mesh sleeves (often called mulch socks or wattles) is an absolute game-changer. Here is why this method works so brilliantly:

  • Rot Resistance: Cedar is naturally packed with oils that resist decay. Unlike other woods that break down into mush in a single season, shredded cedar stands up to moisture for years.

  • Structural Stability: When shredded cedar is packed into a mesh tube, the interlocking fibers knit together. The mesh acts as an external skeleton, preventing the mulch from washing away even in high-volume downpours.

  • Superior Filtration: Rather than acting like a brick wall, a mesh-bound cedar berm acts like a giant sponge. It slows water down and filters out sediment while letting clean water slowly weep through.

  • Erosion Control: You can lay these mesh-bound cedar tubes right along the downhill lip of your swale or terrace them down steep slopes. Over time, plants will grow their roots directly through the mesh and into the decomposing mulch, locking the structure permanently into your landscape.

4 Steps to Building Your Own Water-Harvesting System

Ready to start catching rainwater? Here is a simple, step-by-step roadmap to get you going:

1. Find your contours: Prerequisite.

Use an A-frame level or a simple line level to mark out lines across your slope that are perfectly horizontal. If your swale isn’t level, water will rush to the lowest point and blow out your berm.

2. Dig the swale: Physical setup.

Dig a shallow, flat-bottomed trench (typically 1 to 2 feet wide and a few inches deep) along your contour line. Place the excavated soil on the downhill side of the trench.

3. Lay your mesh-wrapped cedar berm: Erosion barrier.

Position your mesh sleeves filled with shredded cedar mulch directly on top of the downhill soil mound. Stake them down if you are working on a steep slope. This adds immediate, self-supporting structure that won’t erode while your plants establish.

4. Plant and mulch: Completion.

Plant water-loving species in the bottom of the swale, and deep-rooted, drought-tolerant plants or fruit trees on the berm. Cover the bare soil of your swale with wood chips to minimize evaporation and prevent weed growth.

A Quick Safety Warning: Never build swales directly next to your house foundation, or on slopes steeper than 15-20% without consulting an engineer. You want to sink water into your garden, not your basement!

By pairing the time-tested physics of swales with the resilience of self-supporting cedar mulch berms, you can turn your yard into a self-watering, soil-building oasis. Your plants and your water bill will thank you.

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July Lawn Care: Surviving the Heat and Taming the Post-Vacation Jungle

Welcome to July in San Antonio! If your neighborhood is anything like mine, the South Texas summer heat is officially in full force. This time of year, lawn care shifts from “growth and heavy maintenance” to pure “survival and management.”

I actually just got back from a fantastic two-week family vacation, and as you can probably guess, two weeks away in the peak of summer means returning home to an absolute jungle. Managing a lawn after being away introduces a classic dilemma, so let’s talk about how to tackle that first cut without destroying your grass, along with our usual July game plan.

The Post-Vacation Cut: The 30% Rule

When you look out at a lawn that hasn’t been touched in two weeks during prime growing season, the immediate impulse is to drop the mower deck to its regular height and hack it all down in one aggressive pass. Don’t do it. Hacking off too much of the grass blade at once shocks the plant, slices into the stem, and leaves you with a brown, stressed-out yard that will struggle under the July sun.

Instead, I used a technique to safely work the lawn back down to its regular level:

  1. Raise the Mower Deck: Before I even started the lawnmower, I clicked my mower up a couple of notches higher than my standard maintenance height.

  2. Follow the 30% Rule: The goal for the first cut back was to ensure I wasn’t removing more than 30% (or 1/3) of the total height of the leaf blades.

  3. Gradual Reduction: By taking off just the top section, the lawn stays green, protects its root system, and avoids sudden shock. Over the next couple of mowings spaced a few days apart, I will gradually lower the deck back down to my regular summer height.

If you are returning from summer travel, save your grass the trauma and take it down in stages rather than opting for a harsh, short cut.

July Lawn Maintenance Strategy

Beyond managing a post-vacation jungle, July in San Antonio requires a very specific approach to water, weeds, and fertilizer. Here is the breakdown of what you should—and shouldn’t—be doing right now.

1. Dial In the Watering

The absolute biggest priority this month is keeping up with moisture. Your lawn needs about one inch of water per week to stay green and resilient.

  • On weeks where we get a good summer downpour, let nature do the work.

  • On dry weeks, make sure your irrigation or sprinklers are filling the gap.

  • Watch for Hot Spots: Pay close attention to areas along concrete sidewalks, driveways, or spots with poor soil. These absorb heat and dry out much faster than the rest of the yard. Keep a hose handy to give those specific areas some extra hand-watering to counteract the heat reflection.

2. Halt the Heavy Fertilizers

It is simply too hot to push your lawn right now. Applying high-nitrogen synthetic fertilizers during a San Antonio July is incredibly risky and a fast track to burning your grass.

Instead, stick to a gentle, organic approach. I prefer putting down a natural option like Milorganite. It doesn’t risk burning the lawn because it relies on soil microorganisms to break it down and feed the grass naturally. Additionally, I stick to my regular schedule of applying a pre-emergent every other month to stop new weeds from taking hold before they start.

3. Spot-Treat Weeds Only

Do not go out and blanket-spray your entire yard with liquid weed killers right now. High ambient temperatures combined with heavy herbicide applications will severely stress or kill your turf grass. If you have a few stubborn weeds pushing through, use a hand-held sprayer to spot-treat them directly and precisely, leaving the rest of the grass unbothered.

4. Pest Control

Don’t forget the bugs. July is prime time for turf pests to do undercover damage. Keeping up with a targeted pest treatment every other month has given me great results and keeps the lawn protected when it’s at its most vulnerable.

July lawn care isn’t about forcing major changes; it’s about smart preservation, steady hydration, and knowing how to handle the grass when life (and vacation) takes you away for a bit. Raise that mower deck, keep the water moving, and let’s get through the peak of summer together.

How is your yard holding up against the July heat? Let me know in the comments below!

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CONVENTION VOTES DOWN LNC STRUCTURE CHANGE; APPROVES ELECTRONIC VOTING AND TOUGHER FLOOR RULES

By Paul Darr the 2026 Bylaws and Rules Committee Chair

GRAND RAPIDS – Libertarian Party delegates wrapped up a contentious bylaws debate at the national convention, rejecting sweeping structural changes of party leadership while passing a slate of high-tech and procedural reforms aimed at streamlining future assemblies.

The changes came during the presentation of the 2026 Bylaws Committee Report, a document representing nearly 11 months of biweekly deliberations. Despite the long preparation, delegates proved highly selective, defeating eight major proposals, adopting four, and leaving the remainder unaddressed as time expired.

A Defeat for Structural Change and Voting Reform
The convention delivered a decisive blow to an aggressive push to restructure the Libertarian National Committee (LNC). Proposal 8, which sought to shrink the size of the national board by abolishing the current regional representative system and adding more at-large seats, failed on the floor. Opponents successfully argued against dismantling the geographic representation that state affiliates currently enjoy.

A parallel effort to change how party leadership is chosen also stumbled. Delegates rejected Proposal 1, which would have introduced Ranked Choice Voting (RCV) for national officer elections, and Proposal 4, which aimed to institute a semi-proportional “cumulative voting” system for multi-winner races.

Other high-profile casualties included a proposal to require national officers to be life members (Proposal 6), a standardized consolidation of committee debate rules (Proposal 7), a new codified ethics agreement (Proposal 9), and a unified process for LNC removal trials (Proposal 2). Delegates also rejected a controversial measure to restrict convention voting privileges strictly to National Party sustaining members (Proposal 11).

High-Tech and Efficiency Measures Clear the Floor
While sweeping structural changes were cast aside, delegates overwhelmingly embraced modernization and floor discipline, passing four key measures:

Electronic Balloting Authorized (Proposal 3): In a historic shift away from slow, paper-and-tally sheet procedures, the party legally authorized electronic voting methods for future conventions. To address intense election integrity debates, the new rule mandates that delegates must be physically present to use the system. Additionally, the electronic system must generate a physical backup ballot for every vote cast, and any successfully ordered recount must be conducted entirely by hand using those physical backups.

Crackdown on Fringe Motions (Proposal 5): Future convention floors will see far less procedural gridlock under a newly adopted rule targeting time-wasting maneuvers. Previously, any two delegates could introduce a motion and force a debate. The new rule raises the threshold to a “standing second,” requiring at least 20 delegates to manually second any floor motion before it can be considered by the assembly.

Longer Runways for Committees (Proposal 10): Acknowledging years of structural bottlenecking, delegates voted to double the operational timelines for two vital bodies. The Platform Committee will now be appointed 12 months ahead of the convention rather than five, aligning its schedule with the Bylaws Committee. The Credentials Committee window was expanded from three months to six months. This gives volunteers a massive operational runway to vet delegate lists and organize platform proposals well before the convention begins.

The “NOTA” Vacancy Rule (Proposal 12): The party solidified its unique relationship with “None of the Above” (NOTA) by codifying exact rules for presidential selections. If a majority of delegates vote for NOTA in a presidential or vice-presidential round, no candidate will receive the nomination, the slot will be declared vacant, and nominations will completely reopen. Crucially, the new rule dictates that any losing candidates from the previous rounds are permanently barred from being nominated during the reopened cycle.

Unfinished Business
Due to tight convention scheduling, Proposals 13 through 22 were never reached or presented to the floor. As a result, the party’s existing framework remains intact for those sections. National sustaining dues will remain at the historical $25 baseline, the regional LNC frameworks will persist without interruption, and the traditional signature token system used for nominating presidential candidates will remain in force for the foreseeable future.

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March Lawn and Garden Care in San Antonio

March is when yards in San Antonio start waking up.

The days are getting longer, the soil temperature is climbing, and Bermuda lawns across the city are beginning to show the first hints of green. If you’ve been following my earlier guides on preparing for early yard care and how to scalp your lawn, this is when that preparation begins to pay off.

March is a transition month. Winter cleanup is wrapping up and the growing season is about to begin.

A few simple tasks now will make a huge difference in how your lawn and garden perform once the Texas heat arrives.

Finish Scalping Your Bermuda Lawn

If you haven’t already done it, early March is usually the last good window to scalp Bermuda grass.

Scalping removes the dormant brown growth from last year and allows sunlight to reach the crowns of the grass. It speeds up spring green-up and helps the lawn grow in thicker once the soil warms.

If you want a detailed step-by-step explanation, read my guide:
👉 How Do I Scalp My Lawn?

Start Feeding the Soil

March is when the soil ecosystem begins to wake up. Microbes become active again, which means it’s the perfect time to begin feeding the soil.

Healthy soil leads to healthy grass.

In Lawn Care: The Good Stuff I talked about one of my favorite simple approaches: using organic fertilizers that improve soil biology instead of just forcing grass growth.

One of the easiest options is chicken crumble feed. It’s inexpensive, widely available, and slowly breaks down into nutrients that feed soil microbes.

Organic fertilizers don’t give the instant dark green look of synthetic fertilizers, but they build healthier soil over time, which leads to stronger turf during our brutal Texas summers.

Repair Thin or Bare Spots

Once your lawn has been scalped, you’ll be able to clearly see problem areas that were hidden during winter.

March is a great time to:

  • Fill low spots with soil
  • Add compost to thin areas
  • Break up compacted soil
  • Repair winter damage

Bermuda spreads aggressively once temperatures warm up, so many small bare areas will fill in naturally once growth begins.

For a broader seasonal plan, see the full San Antonio Lawn Care Schedule, which walks through what to do each month.

Prepare Garden Beds for Spring Planting

March is also when garden beds need attention again.

Winter weeds and dead plant material should be cleared so new plants have space to grow. In Clearing Garden Space I talk about why doing this early makes the entire gardening season easier.

Typical tasks for March include:

  • Removing winter weeds
  • Clearing dead plants
  • Loosening garden soil
  • Adding compost or organic matter
  • Refreshing mulch

Start Thinking About Soil and Seeds

With garden beds cleaned out, it’s time to think about planting.

In Soil, Seeds, and Other Stuff I talk about why soil preparation matters just as much as what you plant.

San Antonio’s growing season starts early, so March is when many spring vegetables can go in the ground.

Common March plantings include:

  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Squash
  • Beans
  • Herbs

Just keep an eye out for the occasional late cold front.

Check Irrigation Before the Heat Arrives

Before the summer heat hits, March is a great time to test your irrigation system.

Run each zone and check for:

  • broken sprinkler heads
  • misaligned spray patterns
  • leaks
  • dry spots

Fixing irrigation issues now prevents a lot of frustration once temperatures start pushing 100°.

This type of routine yard maintenance is exactly why I wrote Let’s Mow the Lawn the small things done consistently make a big difference.

Getting Ahead of the Season

Good lawns in San Antonio aren’t built in April or May.

They’re built with the preparation you do in March.

If you want a deeper look at what should be happening throughout the season, these guides may help:

Spring is here.

The lawn is waking up.

And that means it’s time to get outside and mow the lawn.

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